Wednesday, May 13, 2009

Longer Shadows



Although winter is rapidly approaching, today offered a respite, with slightly warmer temperatures and no wind.

The last foto shows the progress on the furnace room.

Yes, those are flamingos in two of the fotos.

A bit of local color here in the late fall.

No, the rest of the windows for the new house are not here yet. Five months late.










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Friday, May 08, 2009

Cold Mornings




Another cold morning in southern Patagonia. But the work on the installation of gas, sewer, and water continues. The guys from the window shop arrived and attempted to install two windows. Windows continue to be a problem.





Thursday, May 07, 2009

Special Tools



Anybody who has ridden a motorcycle for very long in Patagonia knows two things. One is that there are no spare parts for your bike. The other is that certain local mechanics can do things that you would never expect to be possible by those who call themselves mechanics "back home."

Here in Puerto Natales, one of the magicians is Samuel. He used to be with the Chilean KTM team for races like the Paris-Dakar. For people like Carlo de Gavardo.

Back in 2001 I had a problem with my 1997 KLR650. One of the fork seals had gotten a bit loose and was allowing oil to spray onto the front disc rotor. At the time it was not clear where the offending oil was coming from and I thought it might have been coming from the brake caliper. Samuel quickly found the problem and told me there were of course no spares within 1000 km or more. And he had no tools for disassembly of the forks. He did determine the internal hex size inside the fork for the tool that would need to fit into that recess so that the Allen bolt at the bottom of the fork, on the outside, could be removed. Samuel found a hex-headed bolt that was about 2 mm or so larger than the required size, and ground down the flats until it fit into the internal hex inside the fork. Then he disassembled both forks, cleaned them out properly, and eventually re-seated the Argentine fork seal that had been leaking (it had been installed in 1999 at a shop near Mendoza).

I was amazed to find fork oil in Natales back in 2001, and a bit dismayed last year when we went through the forks again and I found that nobody in Natales sold motorcycle fork oil anymore. But Samuel still had that "special tool" that he had kept around since there are a lot of KLR650s that come through these territories.

Fast forward to 2009, and Samuel is dealing with two KLRs with balancer system problems (including an offending 2008 KLR). He had no special tools for removing the craftshaft rotor bolt to do the repair. To hold the rotor to remove the rather substantial bolt, you need an offset wrench. So Samuel took a crescent-type wrench, adjusted it to the required opening, cut off the handle, and welded the head of the crescent-type wrench to an offset handle. As you see in the foto.

Now that the rotor bolt was out, he needed a rotor puller. Again, Samuel did not have the special tool, but he had the rotor bolt so he determined what the thread size was. Then he found a piece of pipe with about the right diameter - that is, the same outside diameter as the Kawasaki special tool used for rotor removal. He went to a machinist in Natales and got the proper threads cut into his new tool, and used a pipe wrench to turn it. Bingo, the rotor popped off nicely.

Now, if you bring in a BMW or other overly modernized bike and expect Samuel to fix a problem with an electronic item, you will probably be disappointed. There are certain limitations even for Patagonian magician mechanics.

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Invierno de golpe






And suddenly it is winter in Ultima Esperanza.

It is not surprising that the workers have not shown up this morning. That their performance has been unsatisfactory lately has escaped neither my glance nor that of their boss, José. Alas, they started out well, particularly when compared to the first builder. But recently their previously good work had become uneven, and they had been borrowing my tools (ladder and cordless driver) to work on projects other than Casa 7 Bis, often without even asking me. I think some of my materials went into other people's projects as well. That they have failed at times to follow instructions I thought might have been my not pressing them or José firmly enough. José is aware of my aggravation with the decline and we will resolve it somehow. I had suggested that he, José, provide them with some rather firm guidance. It's possible that before a fortnight has gone by, they may be replaced altogether.

For some reason this reminds me of the title of a book. A Douglas Adams book. The Long Dark Tea-Time of the Soul.








Tuesday, May 05, 2009

Aftermath


The wind continued to blow last night. With the electrical power out for much of the day, I became a believer in the little fluorescent lantern that came with my Craftsman 19 volt cordless tool set. However, I was greatly annoyed that the workers had borrowed my cordless screwdriver and along with it my spare 19 volt batteries, and had apparently taken those home with them. Won't let that happen again.

The power company, Edelmag, showed up at about 10 this morning to start to work on the outage. See first foto. By afternoon I had word that we had power back on in the village.

In the second foto we see the downspouts that will eventually feed the rainwater storage tank. I dug the trench in the foto as a provisional measure to keep water away from the structure. The rain feeding those downspouts was not particularly heavy but I opted from two spouts to try to keep from having too much weight on the canaleta in the event of a surge in rainfall, or in times of hail mixed with rain that could slow the flow. Speaking of which, there was a good bit of sleet falling as I returned from Natales today. It was good to come home to a warm house (thank you again, D&G - you know I will be forever grateful).


Monday, May 04, 2009

The Almost-Hurricane, and other arguments



OK, it wasn't exactly a hurricane. But locals tell me it was the strongest wind in memory, and it did its share of damage, with phone lines down, electrical power out, at least one chimney blasted, windows broken, and the slaughterhouse shredded and effectively gone.



The boat belonging to the carabineros, the national police, was porpoising terribly in midmorning today, and we who passed by suspected that it would slip its surly bonds and become just another wreck before the storm was over. And when I went by late this afternoon, that boat was on the beach.



The last foto is the delivery of the galvanized pipe for the gas line to be installed later this week. It was a bit much to haul on the overhead rack of my pickup so José used his truck. The gas line here is not the "black pipe" we are used to in North America. Instead, the practice is to paint the pipe with an anticorrosive paint, let that dry, and then assemble the gas line, then cover it with a tight wrapping of tarpaper. Should be a foto of that here somewhere. I suspect that leaves a lot of opportunity for weak points in the system but I suppose it is the best they can do down here.







And the local best has proven in the recent past to be none too good, particularly where firestopping design is involved. When the lads started preparation for the furnace room they removed the corrugated steel from the existing structure....exactly what I did not want them to do but evidently that didn't get communicated between builder José and the workers. The design was supposed to install the fibercement board over the corrugated steel for optimum fire resistance, rather than having just the 8mm fibercement placed directly against the combustible felt paper and OSB with no air gap. It does not surprise me that so many buildings around Natales have been destroyed or damaged by fire. And that includes the most prestigious hotel in the city, just a few months ago.

After all, we are still in Chile. A tremendous bureaucracy, but little in the way of productive utility, or the benefit of cost-effectiveness trade-studies, or real technical substance or, evidently, the probable outcomes of much administrative and legislative foolishness (in this there is an attempt to emulate the worst of the West). A hungry and expensive bureaucracy, and one that, in some corners of the country, does not stoop to compliance with its legal requirements (as is the case of the legal system, it turns out, which in the case of Punta Arenas has determined that it is above the law itself).

One of the elements of local culture that escapes the casual visitor is the extent to which myth and nonproductive tradition conspire against the potential for greater good. I often see the shrugging of shoulders and hear "Es lo que hay" - "it's what there is." As if alternatives proven useful elsewhere should not even be considered. I am reminded of an Alvaro Vargas Llosa book on the subject, but let's not go there right now. After all, I am still a guest. A critical guest, but a guest nonetheless.